The Young Man and the Sea : Recipes and Crispy Fish Tales from Esca

Seafood genius Dave Pasternack achieved national fame in 2000, when he served his first plate of pristine raw fish sprinkled with crunchy sea salt and fresh citrus juice, adding the word crudo—Italian-style sushi—to the American culinary lexicon. And here is his much anticipated first book, a celebration of the fresh flavors of the sea, Italian-style, featuring:

• A full chapter on crudo such as Albacore with Caperberries, Nantucket Bay Scallops with Lemon and Chervil, and Two-Minute Cherrystone Clam Cerviche
• Groundbreaking pastas like Dave's brilliant invention Rigatoni with Tuna Bolognese, the definitive Linguine with Clams, Pancetta, and Red Pepper Flakes, the luxurious Spaghetti with Lobster and Chiles, and the ultrasimple Fettucine with Rock Shrimp, Corn, and Jalapeño.
• Salads such as Grilled Tuna with Artichokes, soups like Zuppa di Pesce Amalfitano, and starters that include Grilled Sardines with Caponata.
• Gills on the grill—Sicilian-Style Swordfish, Tuna on a Plank, and Salmon with Figs, Saba, and Watercress
• Pan-fried favorites like Monkfish with Sautéed Wild Mushrooms and Chestnuts, and regal roasts such as Pan-Roasted Cod with Spinach and Clementines
• The crispiest Fritto Misto or Steamers with Caper-Tarragon Aioli
• Tantalizing shellfish such as Fried Soft-Shell Crabs with Ramps or Baked Clams with Italian-Style Bread Crumbs and Horseradish

The more than one hundred recipes are at once inventive and comforting, complexly flavored yet simply prepared. And they are accompanied by the stories of an impassioned fisherman, the tips and advice of a singularly expert authority, creating a masterpiece in the field.

When a chef writes a cookbook, he or she must make often complex restaurant dishes accessible to home cooks without sacrificing the things that make them great. This is precisely what David Pasternack, chef at New York's Esca, has done in The Young Man and the Sea, a collection of 100-plus simple yet remarkable seafood recipes that cooks at all skill levels will want to try.

Featuring salads, including a delicious one of grilled tuna and artichokes; raw dishes such as Black Sea Bas with Pine Nuts; and pastas like Fettuccine with Rock Shrimp, Corn, and Jalapeño, the book also offers grilled and pan-fried favorites, like Grilled Snapper with Almond-Oregano Pesto, and "crispy" dishes, including a superlative Fritto Misto Amalfitano, among other course standouts. Throughout, Pasternack shares sage advice and cooking insights (for example, use a relatively low-temperature for frying to maintain fish moistness), that will broaden any cook's knowledge. Interspersed with stories of fisherman and local seafood markets, and with color photographs throughout, the book offers a singular, passionate understanding that will translate into great home cooking. --Arthur Boehm